NOLA Art & Whimsy 018 - Stick Nativity

Please click on the image for a larger, more-detailed version.We're all affected by the recession.

NOLA Burial & Necropolis 010 - Jefferson Fire Company #22

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The Jefferson Fire Company No. 22 crypt is one of four or five firemen group tombs in Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 The Lafayette Hook and Ladder Co. No. 1 and The Chalmette Fire Co. No. 32 are also in attendance. The writing on the relief of the pump reads: Incorporated April 27 A.D. 1845- Ready at the First Sound.

A lot of filming happens in this cemetery.

I was only inconvienced a little bit.

NOLA Art & Whimsy 017 - Mardi Gras Indians

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This is a T-shirt I bought in New Orleans after Katrina. I tried to buy a lot of shirts because I know it's a high profit-margin item. $2.00 to make; sell for $35. Fine with me. This is one way I tried to "contribute to the local economy".
This person is dressed as a Mardi Gras Indian. The Mardi Gras Indians are black, working class people who, 100 years ago, realized they would never get into the Krewes that participated in Mardi Gras parades and social events and so started their own. They created personas in homage to Native Americans as some of the first people near New Orleans to help slaves get to freedom. Some of the original Mardi Gras Indians may have been former slaves.

Unlike the other parades, the Mardi Gras Indians do not have a planned or defined route. It happens when and where their "Big Chief" decides.
Decades before gangs, the Indian parades were events in which tribal groups and individuals aired grievances. It was violent and chaotic. The police could do nothing in the pandemonium that is
Mardi Gras. Also, originally the Indians were masked.

The act of dressing this way on Mardi Gras Day is called "suiting". Again, decades ago, having someone in your family suiting on Mardi Gras day was equivalent to seeing them dress in the colors of Crips or Bloods. It only meant trouble. Big Chief Tootie Montana settled all that down and now the Indian parades are heralded as a great cultural event, though still not many white people attend. The chiefs of the tribes spend all year making the suits and can use tens of thousands of beads and innumerable feathers. The suits can cost upwards of $20,000 to make. The suits are only used once and often go directly to museums.

The Back of the shirt reads: "Won't Bow Down" from the song, "My Indian Red".

"I've got a Big Chief, Big Chief, Big Chief of the Nation
Wild, wild creation
He won't bow down, down on the ground
Oh how I love to hear him call Indian Red
When I throw my net in the river
I will take only what I need
Just enough for me and my lover
I will take only what I need
Mighty cooty fiyo - hey la hey, hey la he"

The Indians are also the subject of the extremely popular Sugar Boy Crawford song, “Jock-A-Mo”, now known and covered as "Iko Iko".

In 1976, the "The Wild Tchoupitoulas" tribe made an album of "call-and-response" songs with famed New Orleans producer Allen Toussaint and members of the musical groups The Meters (you know "Cissy Strut") and the Neville Brothers (nephews of Wild Tchoupitoulas' leader George "Big Chief Jolly" Landry.

There are volumes to be read about the customs, behaviors and dress style of the different tribes- how they great each other with songs or acquiesce to a rival's superior suit craftsmanship and what-have-you. I won't load this post up with details, but I encourage you to look them up. I would just have to Google for more information, anyway. At least do an "image search".

A few related Links:
Andrew Justin: Runnin' Pretty
Krewe of Zulu
The World That Made New Orleans
Wewontbowdown.com
Mardigrasneworleans.com/Indians

NOLA Architecture 028 - Skull Rose Fence

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This iron fence is made to look like flowers from one angle,
but skulls from another. This is to ward off evil spirits.

The upper gallery features clusters of roses that look like skulls from certain angles.

New Orleans Flora & Fauna 028 - Jasmine

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You wouldn't think I could get sick of the smell of jasmine.

But I did. The air is dizzy with it in April

NOLA Art & Whimsy 016 - Street Name Tiles

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Many of the streets in New Orleans are labeled with while tiles with blue letters. These are called "Encaustic" tiles, which means the lettering is clay dust fired with the tile, not dyed or painted, then glazed. These were likely made by the American Encaustic Tile Company of Ohio and New York.
That company went out of business in 1935, so the original tiles are at least 75 years old.

Like the Sewage & Water Board meter cap, there exists an entire design industry utilizing this motif. You can buy coasters, T-Shirts, trivets, there's even a Facebook page.

Being that these tiles are scarce and replicas are pretty expensive, sometimes you do what you gotta do to work with an old idea.

But notice that this is at Seventh St.

NOLA Architecture 028 - Pigeon Wall

Please click on the images for larger, more-detailed versions.Gotta keep the pigeons off somehow.

Some other types, too.

NOLA Flora & Fauna 027 - Lush Life

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Not just a Coltrane album.

NOLA Food & Bevvies 004 - Café Du Monde

Café du Monde is a stinking joke of a tourist trap.
The coffee is disgusting and the one in the French Quarter has never been cleaned (this is normally charming in New Orleans, but this place is just gross). The beignets are good but you can get good beignets anywhere.

It was sold out to a Japanese company decades ago. There is one in the French quarter, there are 4 more in the closest malls just outside of New Orleans and there are 56 of them in Japan. Cafe du Monde really hasn't been worth crap in 100 years. If you want good coffee & chicory, go to any restaurant owned by the Brennans.

The great old coffee houses in New Orleans are pretty much gone.

As I mentioned Rue De La Course had to downsize due to outrageous Magazine St. rent prices. They are the best chain there.

There is a lovely coffee shop at Magazine St. and Nashville called Bella Luna. They have a beautiful old mansion where you can sit out on the old wooden porch. They have blue sky and clouds painted in the ceiling of the outside porch. But their WiFi always gives me trouble.

My other favorite place is up on Oak St in Riverbend. It's called Z'otz. Great coffee, great Art.

Still Perkin' at Prytania & Washington has a lovely outdoor deck for reading the paper.

Fuel on Magazine St. is a new favorite.

CC's (Community Coffee) and PJ's are also near & dear to my heart.

Kaldi's down in the quarter was awesome; also couldn't afford skyrocketing rent.
They are all still doing the best they can, competing in a reduced city in a crappy economy,

but I'll tell you who isn't worried...


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Good job, fat mid-western white tourists.

This is not my city.

NOLA Burial & Necropolis 009 - Colored Crypt

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"One of these things is not like the others,
One of these things just doesn't belong,
Can you tell which thing is not like the others
By the time I finish my song?"

This crypt is an interesting splash of color in the otherwise whitewashed Lafayette Cemetery No.1. I'm very surprised there isn't more of this here.

Columnar markers are common in the New Orleans cemeteries. Most indicate "societies" and "associations" to which the deceased belonged. I need to do some research and make a post about these.
Note how long ago these people died. It's good to see that someone is keeping up on the maintenance of the tomb.

NOLA Architechture 027 - Anne Rice's St. Elizabeth's

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Where Napoleon & Prytania streets meet sits St. Elizabeth's, formerly owned by Anne Rice. I don't know much about it, except that I rode my bike past it most days as I went to work, 2/5 of a mile away on Prytania. On the Prytania side of the buiding hung a sign that read, "Stan Rice Gallery". Far as I know, Stan died and Anne sold the place. Now it is St. Elizabeth's Condominiums , for which I'm guessing she should be shot. There seems to be a fair amount of text about it (as well as interior pictures) on her website and the condo website. Please visit the links provided for that.

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NOLA Flora & Fauna 026 - The Elusive Uptown Cypress

Please click on the images for larger, more-detailed versions.As I took this picture, I said to my wife, "Huh. You never actually see Cypress trees in the city. You only see them in the parks and swamps."


A day later I noticed that THERE ARE TEN OF THEM DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE!

I'm pretty sure these don't have the cypress knees, as they are not close enough to water.

NOLA Art & Whimsy 015 - Meditation Walk

Please click on the image for a larger, more-detailed version.Audubon park is a public park that spans the land from Tulane / Loyola Universities to the Mississippi River. It has been the site of a World's Fair, the Cotton Centennial and served as a staging area for soldiers a few times. The area riverside of Magazine is now the Audubon Zoo.

The majority Audubon's acreage lakeside of Magazine St. and Riverside of St. Charles Ave. is unfortunately a golf course. Around the golf course is a 1.7 mile jogging / biking path. A sliver of peripheral land is open for public use. You see here a gateway to the "meditation walk". This is the former entrance to the Heymann Memorial Conservatory which stood since Cotton Exposition in 1884 and was demolished by the Audubon Nature Institute in 2001.

Now I don't know about you, but to me, "meditation" means quiet, contemplative thought as well as relaxation and peace. I'm never as anxious, flinching and tense in my life as I am walking around a golf course. I ain't meditating on crap. I'm making sure I don't get beaned with a golf ball. Maybe if you get hit in the right spot it'll open a chakra or something. All you can do is hope for the best.

NOLA Architecture 026 - Rue De La Course

Please click on the images for larger, more-detailed versions.This building once housed one of the best coffee houses in the city, Rue de la Course. I spent lots and lots of time here. It's on Magazine between 8th and 9th Street. The story that was told to me is that the owners of this building either would not renew the lease to Rue de la Course or made rent prohibitively expensive, forcing them out. Then the building's owner leased it to a friend who put in another coffee shop. Rue de la Course is was a beautiful, beautiful space. The new shop (as you see in the next two pics) was the tackiest, most visually offensive food/beverage business in the city. I never went inside the place once this opened. They always had huge, ugly, plastic banners and signs hanging outside, just puking all over this lovely building.

The good news is: Rue's owners, Debra Dunn and Jerry Roppolo purchased a space directly across the street. Retail rent on Magazine street went from 12-$16 / sq. ft. from 1997 to 2005. After Katrina, it jumped to $21. So they are hopefully in a much better position now that they own. And it looks like they thrive to this day.

The better news is: the new coffeehouse that went into the building above failed pretty quickly. This building (with massive square footage that can get premium rates) has been empty for many months if not a year. And I'm glad for it.

disgusting:

This one was taken through a window, so there is a reflection in which you can see the new Rue de la Course. See if you can make out the coffee bean sticker on the back wall:

Though I'm not afraid to play tourist and take loads and loads of pictures of the city (and did the same when I lived there), I don't think I'll ever have the cajones to take pictures inside of a place while people are eating or shopping. So I had to steal pictures from the interweb-thingy to show you what a typical Rue De La Course looks like. Only one of the pictures below is from the Magazine St. Location, but they all look this good.

Rue de la Course Magazine street.
This chalk board and tin work were replaced by yellow walls (more like egg-bread colored) and the coffee bean sticker mural.

Rue De La Course on S. Carrollton was a bank (then a Kinko's).
And now it's breath-taking.

Rue De La Course on S. Carrollton

Rue De La Course on S. Carrollton

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NOLA Flora & Fauna 025 - Ant

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This is an ant that was spied walking across some moss at Oak Alley. There is nothing terribly remarkable about this image or animal. I just want to say I'm terribly impressed with the "macro lens" feature on my crappy $100 camera. I've owned this camera since last summer and never bothered to use this setting because I remember how "digital zoom" looks.

NOLA 2005 Tri-State Shutter Swap 012 - Little Reminders

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By Spring of 2006, much of uptown had been cleaned up pretty well. The bigger emergencies had been tended to first. Eventually there was time to get to the minor casualties and things that were not posing immediate threat of additional harm. This tree is just a little guy who didn't make it. I'm not sure if it was salinity or pollutants or what- but not only submerged trees and shrubs died.

NOLA Food & Bevvies 002 - Cooter Brown's

509 S. Carrollton Ave. New Orleans, LA
http://www.cooterbrowns.com
Dress: casual to slovenly

Right where the St. Charles Street Car turns from St. Charles to S. Carrolton, Cooter Brown's is one of those places that stock 4000 beers (bottle & tap) and serves great greasy bar food. The best feature is the oyster shucker at the end of the bar. Oyster shuckers are damn-near celebrities in New Orleans. They usually have a minor performance schtick (for instance, a unique way to call out when an order is completed) and they have their own tip jars that are often better-stuffed than the bartender's. The inside decor of CB's is your standard pool-table, neon sign, sports television thing. The picnic tables outside are painted in LSU colors and sit unshaded in the sun. What you do is, you get a big, plastic cafeteria-style tray piled with freshly shucked oysters and a fancy bottle of beer (like Orval, or Whitstable Oyster Stout) and make a sloppy afternoon of it. At least until the sun gets high.

There is always art in New Orleans restaurants. CB's has caricature statues (bas reliefs?) of celebrities holding beer made by artist Scott Conary. It also has a bathroom that opens to the dining room with very little cover. If someone else comes in, you can stand at the urinal and look out at the people in the dining room (and they, you). Modesty is not a virtue in New Orleans.




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NOLA Flora & Fauna 024 - Washington Oaks

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Live Oak post 4682.

There are many oak-lined streets in New Orleans. The river side of Washington makes an especially fantastic canopy. The "opening" you see at the focal point where the tree lines end is basically the river (or at least the port on the river). You can't actually see or get to the river in all of uptown (save ferry crossings) because it is blocked by port warehouses and trains.

NOLA Architecture 025 - Loyola Broadway

Please click on the images for larger, more-detailed versions.Formerly St. Mary’s Dominican College, these buildings are now part of the Broadway Campus of Loyola University of New Orleans. This campus is at the intersection of Broadway (hence the name) and St. Charles Ave. The main campus is more or less across the street. Together they constitute the largest Jesuit College South of St. Louis. The Jesuits are credited with being some of New Orlean's earliest settlers and the introduction of sugar cane to the area. Having so much of this luxury item, New Orleans is the birthplace of many sweetened cocktails.

Also, they have this creepy Druidic alter-lookin' thing under which I believe they sacrifice virgins at midnight under full moons. (As if there are virgins in New Orleans).